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Hiking
Images from the Wild Side
by peterp
[6 Sep 2011 at 9:46pm]
GreatOutdoors.com editor Peter Potterfield takes his job writing about backcountry adventure seriously. The author of a dozen books on outdoor adventure, including Banff Book Festival winner High Himalaya and his most recent, Classic Hikes of the World, he tries each year to visit some of the classic adventure locations around the planet while seeking out new ones. Every few years he shares some of his favorite images.
"The world of adventure is dynamic," he said, "and those of us passionate about it are always seeking new opportunities. People get addicted to outdoor adventure because it keeps them healthy physically and spiritually. Hikers and climbers and paddlers will spare no expense to do the old favorites, the classics, or find something entirely new and different. Covering that world makes for interesting work."
Check out his latest images, ranging from classic outings such as the Everest Trek or the Teton Crest, to more remote locations such as the Long Range Traverse in Newfoundland's Gros Morne National Park, New Zealand's Queen Charlotte Track, and Argentine Patagonia's Fitz Roy Massif.
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Jasper's Jewel: The Tonquin Valley
by peterp
[12 Aug 2011 at 11:34am]
Sauntering along astride Bailey, a palomino gelding, I make my way up pretty Portal Creek Valley until the column of horses in our group crests 7,100 foot McCarib Pass. From here we catch our first glimpse of the imposing range of mountains known simply as the Ramparts that form one wall of the legendary Tonquin Valley. Often called the prettiest part of Alberta’s sprawling Jasper National Park, the Tonquin and its Ramparts are the reason I’m here.
I’m riding instead of walking because my destination is the Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge, a cluster of simple cabins built around a rustic lodge. The wrangler who leads our line of 9 horses, Kable Kongsgrud, and his family own and run the venerable backcountry camp. More and more hikers and cross country skiers choose to stay at the lodge instead of camping in tents, and in fact our group encounters two backpackers near the pass who will also be staying at the lodge. But the majority of guest still arrive by horseback, so I wanted to experience that mode of transport as well. So I'll ride in, but hike out via another route, the Astoria River.
An avid hiker, I find riding to be a mixed blessing: true, you don’t have to carry a pack, but you do have to remain in the saddle for five or six hours as your horse indulges in a variety of gaits. And Bailey has the bad habit of stopping to munch grass when the mood strikes, then galloping along the trail to catch up with the other horses. That can hurt. Some of the other riders in my group, Jim and Pauletta from Medicine Hat, are expert riders and offer me, a total rookie, some useful tips. "Kick him in the ribs when he does that!" By the time we crest the pass and start down toward Amethyst Lakes, I’m improving.
The decision to stay at the lodge is a logical one, an option that makes a lot of sense.read more
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Waterton: The Quiet Jewel of Canada's Rockies
by peterp
[29 Jun 2011 at 10:37am]
From Cameron Lake, Valerie leads me up through the forest to Summit Lake, and beyond, for the final steep grind to the Carthew Summit pass. Below, its namesake cluster of lakes lie in their improbable bowl. This is stunning country, the heart of Waterton Lakes National Park, the narrow waist of the Canadian Rockies that abuts Glacier National Park at the Canada-United States border, not two miles away from where we stand on the rocky trail. We're loaded for bear, literally, as Waterton has probably the most intense grizzly bear mojo you'll find anywhere. With our bear spray at the ready we're both enjoying the outrageous scenery as we work above 7,500 feet to crest the pass and start down to the Carthew Lakes.
We're doing the Carthew-Alderson Trail, 20 kilometers of pure mind-blowing mountain scenery, and one of the signature hikes in the Waterton area. We'll see two dozen species of wildflower in six hours of hiking, reminding us we're in one of the richest eco-tones in North America, an overlapping of prairie and mountain bio-diversity zones that gives us flora and fauna in wild abundance. Everybody in Waterton has wildlife stories, and Valerie shares a few with me over our al fresco backcountry lunch at the lower lakes. Like the time she surprised a grizzly bear in the brush and found herself not twenty feet from a charging animal. She stood her ground and let fly with a well aimed burst of bear spray, a potent deterrent, and so is here with me to tell the tale.
"It's just part of living here in Waterton," Valerie Haig-Brown tells me with a knowing grin. "You know pretty quick if this is the place for you.read more
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GPS Navigation in the Wilds: Getting Started
by peterp
[16 Jun 2011 at 1:14pm]
Our route ascends slickrock slabs and crosses sandy washes as it winds between the fantastic red-rock formations of Arches National Park. Nearing the end of a 20-mile day, one in which we've visited most of the highlights of the park, evening approaches. A final big loop from the trail's end at Double O Arch should bring us back to intersect the main trail near impressive Landscape Arch. I'm thinking we ought to arrive back on the main trail pretty soon, when I realize the Magellan eXplorist 310 GPS device in my hand can eliminate any guesswork.
The 310 gives me not just my precise position on the surface of the Earth, but pinpoints my location on a built in topo map. Looking at the colorful display I can zoom out to see the entire park (or even the entire state) or zoom in to see where my present route will join up with the main trail--in this case, precisely 300 yards away. The device shows a "breadcrumb" trail of my entire route, overlaid on the full color map, with topo lines, roads, trails, and elevation included. As a backcountry traveler who has relied primarily on map and compass to navigate through wilderness, I'm seeing how the hand held GPS unit can add interest, useful information and precision to backcountry routefinding.
I'm lucky in that Eric Waters and Jeff Caulfield from Magellan, both experts in GPS systems and navigation, have come along on the hike to introduce the latest outdoor handheld device from the company, trade-marked named the eXplorist 310. An entry level GPS device, it's perfect for my purpose: to illustrate the basics of GPS navigation in the wilds. While lacking some of the fancy bells and whistles of other Magellan units, the 310 performs navigation tasks just as well but is less complicated to use, so it's a good device on which to demonstrate some of the fundamental parameters of GPS navigation. read more
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The High-Adventure High Life at Lake Chelan
by peterp
[2 Jun 2011 at 12:10pm]
Just after dawn the waters of Lake Chelan are still enough to reflect the snow-capped peaks of the Cascades surrounding the lake, some rising to altitudes of more than 8,000 feet. As I paddle past the shore near town, heading uplake toward wilder reaches farther north, the perspective gives me new respect for the sheer scale of the landscape. This is the place ancient Salish peoples called Tsi-Laan, meaning deep water, an apt moniker. The bottom off the lake is some 1,500 feet below my kayak, making it the third deepest in North America. This, the biggest lake in Washington, stretches for 55-miles, from the town of Chelan up into the heart of the North Cascades at Stehekin. But it's only a mile wide, so the impression is one of a mighty fjord slicing into the mountains.
Chelan is unique in that it is both a destination, replete with multi-sport outdoor activities, and the jumping off place for hard core adventures. I've been here before over the past decade, but mostly as the starting point for mountaineering trips into the wild North Cascades. From the town of Chelan, regular boat service by the Lady of the Lake takes sightseerers and hikers up lake as far north as Stehekin, the gateway to North Cascades National Park. (Or, for the impatient, Chelan Airways can whisk you up in a matter of minutes in one of their classic DeHaviland Beavers, turning the journey into a sightseeing extravaganza). But this time, I'm making a point of staying put in Chelan, of enjoying the outdoor fun closer to town, and combining it with a search for extraordinary food and wine. read more
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A Trek to Grey Owl's Cabin
by peterp
[28 Apr 2011 at 11:22am]
The trail skirts the shore of sprawling Kingsmere Lake, winding serenely through the trees for mile after mile. The going is easy. No towering peaks or steep canyons mark the landscape here in the wilds of Northern Saskatchewan, but the backcountry traveler here will find a unique experience. The is Canada’s great Boreal Forest, the billion acre ribbon of trees stretching from one end of the continent to the other. The forest teems with wildlife. In just four days I’ve seen lynx, black bear and gray wolf. What I haven’t seen are other hikers. This pilgrimage I’m undertaking to the home of one of Canada’s iconic conservation figures is turning out to be a genuine adventure. read more
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Hiking Utah's Cedar Mesa Country
by peterp
[13 Apr 2011 at 3:13pm]
A five-day backpacking excursion in the heart of Utah’s canyon country shows why backcountry lovers come from as far away as Europe to hike this part of Southeastern Utah. While many backpackers choose to hike around Moab and its Arches National Park, or Canyonlands National Park a few hours farther south, far fewer hikers venture down here to Cedar Mesa. Cedar Mesa, just west of Blanding, Utah, is a unique plateau of pinion and juniper covered high country that soars to more than 7,000 feet. The entire Mesa is cut through by dozens of hidden canyons that slice deeply into the red-rock layer cake of the Colorado Plateau. read more
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Mid Winter Getaway: Hike the Grand Canyon
by peterp
[24 Feb 2011 at 5:30pm]
Even hardcore skiers and snowboarders by mid winter start hankering for a little variety in their outdoor adventure. That's when a trip down to Arizona's Grand Canyon can provide a welcome change of pace. And late winter and early spring can offer some of the best hiking conditions of the year. Even when temperatures at the South Rim are near freezing, the bottom of the canyon can have temperatures in the 50s and 60s. More than 250 hikers are rescued each year in the Grand Canyon, with most incidents resulting from heat related problems and dehydration during the warmer months. That's what makes this time of year perfect for hiking in the canyon. A natural feature big enough to be seen from space, the Grand Canyon is one much better enjoyed at closer quarters. From within, the staggering architecture and sheer scale of the canyon can be exhilarating, even humbling. The rocks at the bottom are 2 billion years old, at the top 5 million, creating a slice through geologic time that defies belief. To walk down through this epic historical record, strata by strata--from Kaibab Limestone to Coconino Sandstone to Bright Angel Shale, right down to the Vishnu complex of the Colorado River--is to take a foot journey unlike any other.
read more
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Favorite Gear of the Year for 2010
by Altrec.com/GreatOutdoors.com Staff
[18 Nov 2010 at 12:28pm]
One of the best aspects of working in the outdoor industry is living the life: climbing, hiking, and adventure travel through some of the most fascinating landscapes on earth. Staff members here at GreatOutdoors.com (and our parent company, Altrec.com) spend as much time as possible pursuing outdoor adventure, so they take their outdoor equipment seriously. And this year, GreatOutdoors.com teamed up with Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides, one of America’s premier wilderness guide services, to test gear on an epic 60-mile hike through the Sierra. And because the outdoor professionals at Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides are outfitted with outdoor clothing from Columbia Sportswear, we combined forces with SYMG to test, year round, a large sample of gear from Columbia’s extensive line of clothing. As we roll into the busy fourth quarter, a great time to pick up deals on the best in outdoor gear, here are some of our favorite pieces of equipment for 2010, as tested by the guides at Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides and our own staff.
The Gear We Liked the Best
Columbia's Women's Ashlane Low Hiking Shoes
Hiking shoes that are ready to hit the trail right out of the box! I’ve always struggled with finding boots/hiking shoes that fit my feet and don’t require miles upon miles of hiking to break in, but the Ashlane Lows were one of my favorite products this season. Perfect for day hikes and day packs…not quite enough support for super long trips with a heavy pack but I gave it a shot and they held up well.read more
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Yosemite Grand Traverse
by peterp
[5 Oct 2010 at 1:47pm]
At nearly 11,000 feet, Post Peak Pass is not extraordinarily high for this part of the Sierra. In fact, Forester Pass, to the south, reaches above 13,000. Still, here on day two of a week long backcountry trip, with all the food, fuel and gear that entails--and bear-proof food canisters to boot--working up the south side of Post Peak Pass makes for an honest day's work. We stop for lunch beside a pretty alpine tarn nestled in it's rocky bowl before finishing off the last thousand feet to the pass. And when the five of us finally scramble up to the top of the ridge, we are rewarded with the kind of payoff that reminds us all why we hike: The imposing broadside of Banner, Ritter and the Minarets is right there, creating an unforgettable Sierra scene that makes all the hard work more than worth the effort.
We take a moment to absorb the sheer scale of this stunning landscape before dropping down the ridge to hike beyond the boundary that takes us out of the Ansel Adams Wilderness and into Yosemite National Park. Once in the park proper, we'll work down the switchbacks another mile and then hike through open meadows to make camp near 10K Lake--and get to work putting the tents up before the afternoon thunderstorms pelt us with hail and rain, as they did yesterday. We've seen amazing scenery over the past couple of days, and there are still five more days of hiking to complete this epic traverse of the Sierra. read more
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A Journey to Skoki Lodge
by peterp
[24 Aug 2010 at 10:24am]
Tucked away behind the sprawling Lake Louise Ski Area, in the heart of Alberta's Canadian Rockies, lies the impressive Slate Range. This remote collection of 10,000-foot peaks harbors some of the best hiking in a part of the world renowned for great hiking. Just beyond iconic Mount Richardson and Deception Pass lies the pretty Skoki Valley, a worthy end in itself but also the gateway to greater backcountry adventure beyond. But one of the best-kept secrets of this scenic corner of Banff National Park is actually man made: the venerable Skoki Lodge. This historic log structure was built in 1931 as a base for skiers, never mind the fact that it's almost eight miles from the nearest road. It was as popular then as it is now. Today, a half dozen years after a significant restoration, the pleasures of this historic lodge are a closely guarded secret among the cognescenti who have been there. Few visitors are eager to spill the beans on this comfortable backcountry lodge, a rare haven for lovers of wilderness, currently owned and operated by the Lake Louise Ski Area. It's easy to understand all the secrecy. Here is a place unique in the North American West, situated in one of the most scenic areas of the Canadian Rockies, yet offering all the comforts of home. At Skoki, one lives well, sleeping in comfortable lodge rooms (or adjacent individual cabins), dining well on tasty, healthy food prepared by a dedicated staff, even enjoying a glass of wine with dinner or a cold brew after a hike. And the lodge is so well located that every visitor is well positioned for day hikes (or ski outings in winter) to some of the most stunning landscapes in Banff National Park. But all this backcountry nirvana does require some effort: the only way in to Skoki is to make the seven mile hike in (or ski in during the winter months). read more
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Hiking the Teton Crest Trail
by peterp
[10 Aug 2010 at 2:43pm]
Early on the second day of the Teton Crest Trail, there comes a moment that defines this extraordinary hiking route. As you climb out of the cirque that holds pretty Marion Lake and work up to the low crest known as Fox Creek Pass, suddenly the magnificent bulk of the Grand Teton fills the forward horizon. And for the next several days, the Grand leads the way, dead ahead, looming larger and grander, as the hiker moves along past iconic Teton features such as Death Canyon Shelf, Alaska Basin, and Hurricane Pass. The Teton Crest is a route so distinctive that any serious American backcountry traveler who has yet to do it must view it as unfinished business. The Tetons themselves, rising abruptly and improbably high from the plain of the Snake River, are potent symbols of the West. One wonders that the national park that protects these mountains is by some people considered second banana to Yellowstone, it's larger sister park just to the north. But none of the parks in the West can rival scenery like sunrise on the Teton Crest as it rises above Jenny Lake. Grand Teton National Park is a place that demands some time to be appreciated, not a quick drive through. Unique among classic routes in the West, the Teton Crest Trail continues to evolve. With the opening of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort's new tram in 2009, the backcountry here became more accessible. And whereas the route was once generally thought to begin at Teton Pass near Highway 22, it now is universally considered to begin at the Top of the Tram above Teton Village, creating a 32-mile route, more or less. But one of the unique qualities of this hike is that it can be shortened or lengthened, or modified in creative ways, to fit almost any schedule or style of backpacking. read more
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Jordan's Jewel: A Trek to Petra
by peterp
[2 Jul 2010 at 12:47pm]
We contour along cliffs of red sandstone, moving gradually higher as we follow the tilted topography as it cuts in and out of shallow drainages. Looking around at the complicated network of canyons sprawling below, I’m thinking, this could be the Colorado Plateau of Southern Utah, not southern Jordan. But the Bedouin man crouched by a small fire making tea, his red and white keffiyeh, the traditional Arab headdress, tied in the flowing style of the region, reminds me we are most definitely in the Middle East and not Canyonlands.
As we work our way upward, there’s one little fourth-class rock climbing move, easy but exposed, then more sandstone slabs before an elaborate staircase carved in the stone appears before us. It’s a hot day. The storied Khamasin, a wind that originates in North Africa and blows across the deserts of Saudi Arabia, is stirring. Tomorrow will be a scorcher, and already we sweat through our clothes as we ascend the rocky slope.
At the top of the ancient stairs we follow a narrow defile around a sharp bend. Suddenly, we are stopped cold as we emerge into the open. There before us the exquisite carved façade of Al Deir, better known as the Monastery, perhaps Petra’s grandest monument, rises into the blue sky. It’s a stunning sight, made more so by the abruptness of it, and the fact there isn’t a human to be seen. Incredibly, we have Al Deir to ourselves.
“What do you think, Peter?” asks Yamaan, with his big smile and ironic laugh. He and Catherine execute a heartfelt high five to commemorate the end of six days and 50 miles of trekking across some of the wildest terrain in Jordan. Yamaan put together this unique route after months of exploration.read more
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Coming Up: The Wild Side of Jordan
by GreatOutdoors.com Staff
[26 Apr 2010 at 11:34am]
Don’t miss the adventure of a lifetime as GreatOutdoors.com editor Peter Potterfield takes an epic 50-mile backcountry journey through the mountains of Jordan. One of the most interesting routes in the Middle East, the hike starts from Jordan’s wild Dana Reserve and follows a rugged wilderness to the country's crown jewel—Petra. This is a journey made entirely on foot, day by day, hour by hour, staying in traditional Bedouin camps, savoring the Jordan countryside at a walking pace, having the time to appreciate this unique landscape. read more
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The Adventure Side to Israel
by peterp
[3 Dec 2009 at 9:02pm]
“Wadi” is the term used throughout Arabia to describe any wash, or drainage, in the vast deserts of the region, but when we dropped into Israel's Wadi Ze’Elim last month I wasn’t prepared for the deep, dramatic canyon looming ahead. This rocky feature cuts through Israel’s expansive Judean Desert and was reminiscent of some of my favorite canyons in Southern Utah. But with the turquoise waters of the Dead Sea—at 450 feet below sea level, the lowest place on earth--shimmering just to the east, it’s clear we’re not in Utah any more. Who could have known that here in the heart of the Holy Land we would find a desert canyon to rival any? read more
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In Search of our Staff Favorites
by GreatOutdoors.com Staff
[11 Sep 2009 at 11:07am]
Staff members here at GreatOutdoors.com (and our parent company, Altrec.com) spend as much time as possible pursuing outdoor adventure: climbing, hiking, skiing and enjoying adventure travel through some of the most fascinating landscapes on earth. So, naturally, they take their outdoor equipment seriously. And there’s no proof of performance better than a genuine field test in real conditions on an extended backpacking or climbing trip. Each year, we get together to compare notes on the gear we used the most and liked the best for the season. The result is our annual Staff Favorites, and once again we’ll publish that more detailed review in October, just in time for the holidays and a great time to pick up proven gear read more
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Sawtooth Traverse
by peterp
[20 Aug 2009 at 10:51am]
A couple of hours working up two thousand feet worth of switchbacks takes me from the valley floor to Alpine Lake, nestled in its cirque below Packrat Peak, and the smaller “frog ponds” just beyond. But it’s not until I climb the final mile up to the crest of the ridge itself—well above 9,000 feet—and peer over into the Baron Lakes basin, that the scope of the rugged Sawtooth range hits home. The imposing summits of Monte Verita, Warbonnet and Tohobit dominate the massif rising above Baron Lakes, while Decker Peak looms across the valley to the south, and Braxon and Horstman fill the horizon to the east. read more
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Across Montana's Beartooths
by peterp
[5 Jul 2009 at 1:19pm]
Midway on my 30-mile jaunt across Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, I find myself feeling positively smug. Good weather, good company, and outrageous scenery make for a lucky combination. Even the locals consider the East Rosebud one of the prettiest valleys in the Beartooths, and after a couple of days working up through its rugged beauty, I see why. This hike has a high-octane pay off. After a second full day under cloudless August skies, hiking through the storied waterfalls and craggy peaks of this high valley, we’re now camped in magnificent isolation on a big bench about 15 feet above one of the rock-bound lakes. Clean granite slabs stair-step down to the water from our small meadow, dotted with stunted alpine timber. A soft breeze drifts across the lake, a mere zephyr—and a gentle reminder we are living above 9,000 feet. read more
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From Chaco Canyon to Sky City
by peterp
[18 Mar 2009 at 2:04pm]
Even in early spring the New Mexico sun has me shedding layers as I work my way northwest up the sandy wash that defines Chaco Canyon. Here in the backcountry, a palpable sense of mystery and even spirituality permeates this storied landscape. There’s something about Chaco Canyon--and it’s spooky cluster of enormous kivas and great houses so skillfully constructed a millennia ago in a distinctive masonry style--that makes hiking here unique in the Southwest.. read more
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